The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 1665, specifically the coveted "Double Red" variant from 1972, represents a pinnacle of vintage watchmaking and a significant chapter in Rolex's history. This article will explore the nuances of this iconic timepiece, delving into its design, its development in collaboration with COMEX, its place within the broader context of Rolex Sea-Dweller models, and finally, its current market value and collectability.
This is what a Double Red Sea-Dweller from 1972 should look like: The "Double Red" moniker stems from the striking red text on the dial, proclaiming both "Sea-Dweller" and "200m = 660ft." This bold, highly legible typeface is a defining characteristic of the early Sea-Dweller models, particularly those produced in 1972. Authentic examples exhibit a specific shade of red, a creamy lume, and characteristically aged tritium markers. The case, typically in stainless steel, shows the hallmarks of a robust, tool watch designed to withstand extreme pressure. The crown guards are substantial, protecting the Triplock winding crown, a testament to the watch's water resistance capabilities. The bezel, a crucial element for divers, features a graduated insert, allowing for precise timing of dives. The overall aesthetic is a perfect blend of functionality and understated elegance, a hallmark of Rolex's design philosophy. Examining the caseback reveals the reference number 1665, further solidifying its authenticity. Any discrepancies in these details should raise concerns about the watch's originality.
Developed alongside specialist French diving company COMEX as an industrial version of the Submariner: The story of the Sea-Dweller is inextricably linked to the pioneering work of COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French underwater engineering and saturation diving company. In the early 1960s, COMEX pushed the boundaries of deep-sea exploration, requiring robust, reliable timepieces capable of withstanding the extreme pressures encountered at significant depths. Rolex, already renowned for its diving watches, partnered with COMEX to develop a watch specifically tailored to their needs. The result was the Sea-Dweller, an evolution of the Submariner, featuring enhanced water resistance and a helium escape valve.
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